A writer’s Eden off the heart of Delhi
It was close to midnight when the airport taxi dropped me off on
a quiet tree-lined boulevard, called the Anandagram, as I would later find out.
Before me stood the gate of Sanskriti Kendra, a place I had been eager to visit
in the past six months. I didn’t notice the compound’s loveliness – until the
next morning. Sanskriti Kendra is an artist complex; India’s most popular and
probably oldest.
It is located along the Mehrauli-Gurgaon Road on the outskirts
of Delhi, a 20-minute drive to the picturesque Gurgaon, reputed as the call
centre capital of the world because of the proliferation of IT companies there,
and about an hour’s drive to the intricate heart of New Delhi by taxi. That is,
if you don’t resort to the cheaper alternatives: rickshaws and buses.
Anyway, that midnight as I lugged my bag to my studio, all I saw
was an ordinary well-kept compound fringed by trees and shrubs. No thanks to a
transatlantic flight that buzzed with Spanish and Hindi almost on end till
touchdown; to the clamminess in my armpits that comes with layovers and
long-hauls. Not to the tingly air pressure in my eardrums.
Soft waves, soft breezes
I stumbled out the following morning, gritty-eyed, like a man
gripped by a hangover. Jetlag, precisely. And lo – my senses brightened at
once. It was not the sun’s glare, too soft on the skin. Not the fragrant breeze
which fanned my face. No, it was the amazing shawl of green that perked me up.
The serenity was subduing! It was like waking up on the beach at dawn; soft
waves, soft breezes. No hassles.
I stood awhile on my veranda. Frangipani scent filled my
nostrils when I breathed out. Smiling dreamily, I imagined I had just
discovered freedom. The freedom to renew myself, like a phoenix.
That’s how Sanskriti Kendra can make you feel on your first day,
particularly if you crave a short escape from familiar metropolitan sounds. Or
crave a moment’s indulgence in its lush gardens of birdsong and daydream. If
you wish to awaken creativity and stir your Muse towards expected ends,
Sanskriti Kendra is the right place.
Banyan, terracotta, and
denizens
The first thing you will notice once you walk into the sprawling
grounds of Sanskriti Kendra, apart from the slow music of serenity which stirs
at once within your soul, is the mighty banyan tree with its sinewy roots
clenching the earth, like fists. Like giant dreadlocks. The first time I saw
such a colossal tree was in Miami, in 2008, and I posed for a photograph right
in front of it.
The second thing: two statuesque terracotta horses on your left.
Beyond the equestrian figures are other imposing statues of deities and animals
laid out in a pavilion. The third is the neatly-shaved lawn skirting the
network of cobbled pathways and terraces. The fourth is the fine simplicity of
the ochre buildings, and, finally, the other denizens: squirrels playing
around, the birds flitting in and out of a thousand branches, butterflies and
dragonflies surfing the air.
Timeless objet d’art
The other things you will begin to notice as you tour the
verdant grounds is the plethora of objet d’art – figurines, vases, various
pieces of artistic, cultural and religious values – each piece remarkably
placed at door-sides, verandas, in the gardens, on the cobbled pathway, by the
lily-ponds, and some in the artists’ studio. They are made of ceramics,
terracotta, woodcraft, metal work, and even textile. Most of these objects have
discernible features and forms; some look charming; some haunting – like the
horned head hanging by the door of Studio 7.
Then behind the artists’ lodge is a potter’s shed, where some of
these objects might have been fashioned. In Sanskriti Kendra there is indeed so
much to saturate not only your writers’ senses, but also attune to your mind to
the riches of India; her industriousness. Her timeless dedication to arts and craft.
Cultivating dreams
Sanskriti Kendra roughly translates to a centre for the process
of cultivating. Sanskriti means ‘the process of cultivating’ and Kendra means a
‘centre’ – both in Sanskrit, an Indo-Aryan language regarded as scared in
Hinduism and Buddhism. It is one of the 22 official languages of India.
Sanskirit Kendra is run by the Sanskriti Pratishthan founded in 1979 by O.P.
Jain, a non-academic but big-hearted enthusiast of arts and culture.
Sanskriti Kendra’s philosophy is influenced by antiquity,
artistic merit, and cultural significance, and its myriad activities revolve
around art, craft, literature, social work, and the performing arts, which the
centre has pursued and promoted with a passion that is essentially Indian, over
two decades. Hundreds of artists of various nationalities, and dexterous
craftsmen from almost every part of India, have enjoyed residencies here.
Two Nigerian writers have resided here before me. The beauty of
the centre can be appreciated in how arts and culture overlap harmoniously and
enrich each other in great degrees, thereby infusing a kind of synergy uncommon
with other residencies, with the artist attracting an unexpected boon. Another
beauty is Sanskriti Kendra’s capacity to create a pseudo-Eden ambience where
man and animals blend unobtrusively into each other’s daily life, without ill
will or threat, preserving the flora’s peace.
Unlike most residences, this idyllic writer’s complex houses
three indoor museums, an open-air museum and amphitheatre, an art gallery,
excluding its rich library and spacious residential studios, and a sprawling
luxuriant garden. The three museums are: The Museum of Indian Terracotta, which
is home to over 2,000 objects of art made primarily of terracotta. The Museum
of Everyday Arts, a mini-gallery of utilitarian objects and religious articles,
represented as works of aesthetics and art. And, the Textile Museum, which
displays the diversity of Indian textile heritage.
Veggie, red wine and
sweets
Later in the evening, over red wine and veggie snacks topped off
with mithai – Indian crunchy yet creamy sweets, Mr. Jain, the septuagenarian
founder of the centre, told all the artists present that his dream has always
been to ‘help cultivate an environment for the preservation and promotion of
India’s artistic and cultural resources.’
He recounts how he started the residency programme, inspired by
a trip to the US, how he started collecting art pieces many years ago, which
typify the creative and artistic urges of the common people, and how he decided
to put his soul into the achievement of an ideal artist village. He also
intimates us of the significance of terracotta in the Indian household and
life, although, sadly, capitalism has begun to erode this cultural legacy due
to its inherent acquisitive materialism.
We feel awed by Mr. Jain’s passion and vision. We become speechless awhile,
and start to sip our drinks and nibble snacks once again. We soon stand up to
leave. Darkness has dyed the night black; a frosty chill quivers in the air. I
pause, just briefly, to refill my wineglass – one swill for the road. And
smiling vaguely to myself, I think, ‘Sir, you have surely cultivated a desire
in me to take my writing more seriously,’ and then hasten off to catch up with
the fellow artists.