Despite the absence
of a sitting king, the grand finale of the 2010 Osun Osogbo Festival,
held on Friday, August 27, didn’t lack spectacle. Some had feared that
the festival would be low-keyed following the demise of the Ataoja, Oba
Iyiola Oyewale Matanmi III, on August 4.
Traditional chiefs,
age groups, and other socio-cultural organisations paid homage to the
late Ataoja during the ceremony, which doubled as a rite of passage for
the monarch. Governor of Osun State, Olagunsoye Oyinlola; Minister of
Tourism, Culture, and National Orientation, Sadiq Abubakar Mohammed,
represented by Bamidele Shobayo; dramatists, Adebayo Faleti, Akinwumi
Isola, and Femi Osofisan, attended the ceremony. They were joined by
blacks in the Diaspora who were in town to attend the conference of
Black Nationalities and the colloquium on Slavery, Slave Trade, and
Their Consequences.
Festival Eve
The palace of the
Ataoja, located at the centre of Osogbo, was a beehive of activities on
the eve of the annual festival. Indigenes and visitors alike thronged
the Aafin.
Though many
maintained that the festival and its preceding events were on a smaller
scale this year, owing to the demise of the Ataoja, the crowd that
swarmed to the place to herald the dawn of the festival was impressive.
On the large palace
grounds, parties and musical performances were being held
simultaneously with brisk trades in kolanuts, cigarettes, drinks,
decorative beads, and horsetails. Within the palace walls, Osun
priestesses sat in divination for adherents who flocked to their
consulting rooms with a pittance offering in exchange for prayers.
The Arugba, ensconced somewhere inside, was said to be preparing for the annual rite to be carried out by her in the morning.
Bead Traders
From far and near
locales of Ibadan, Ife, and Iragbiji, among others, bead traders had
arrived at the palace earlier in the evening to secure a vantage spot
to sell. All night long, they sat by their colourful wares, stringing
beads to create necklaces, bangles, purses, and hand-held staffs.
Perhaps, due to the
stiff competition, many of the women traders were suspicious of
photographers and would at the sight of a camera take to shouting, “Ma
ya mi o, ma ya mi o!”(Don’t snap me, don’t snap me!) Reassurances that
their beads, rather than they, were the objects of interest, did not
mollify them.
Nike Shehu gave
NEXT a short enlightenment about the beads and their worth. Shehu, who
came from Ibadan to take part in the two-day trade, placed the beads’
value at between 50 and 6000 naira, with varieties such as the locally
produced coral beads, iyun, segi, and their foreign variants.
She produced a
replica of the beads traditionally worn by the Arugba, a choker-like
neckpiece made with blue cylindrical beads (segi) and interspersed with
large reddish brown coral beads, which she called Iremorun. She also
identified the Sese Efun worn by Osun matriarchs, explaining that the
difference between the expensive beads and the cheaper varieties was
their weight, with the original coral beads weighing a lot more than
the plastic or glass variety.
En route the Grove
In small groups,
tourists and locals made their way to the Osun UNESCO World Heritage
Site, where the grove and many other shrines waited. Artistic
representations of the deities and walls decorated with traditional
images yielded little open arches through which a people progressed
into the leafy underbelly of the grounds.
Devotees of
different traditional sects were seen stopping to kneel in worship and
offer sacrifices to their various patron gods; while priest and
priestesses lined the entry way to the grove asking for offerings. Many
hands dipped into pockets to extract naira notes as offertories.
The grove was taken
over by visitors to the Osun River, most of whom came clad in white –
the colour favoured by the deity. Many came with plastic containers to
collect water from the river. The brown coloured water, locally called
Agbo, perhaps derives its name from its supposed medicinal qualities.
Many washed their
feet in the river, while others took to bathing. Mothers bathed their
children and babies, exhorting Osun to bless them as they did this. A
few came with live birds which they threw onto the water as offerings.
Preliminary celebrations
The arena was agog
with drummers who gave voice to their gangans and batas and sekeres,
while community hunters intermittently released celebratory shots into
the air from their dane guns. Finally, the procession of dignitaries to
the grove began down the wide flight of stairs crafted into the hilly
slope that led to the grove.
Governor of Osun
State, Olagunsoye Oyinlola, flanked by his entourage, was welcomed with
an ijala chant in his honour. Dancers, resplendent in cream and brown
aso-oke attires took the front of the high table where he sat and
expressed their joy at his attendance and support for the festival. A
path was cleared quickly among the crowd for spectacular acrobatic
somersaults by the Osun youth.
Osun priestesses,
chiefs, masquerades, and many other traditional religious figures
filled the grove and its grounds to capacity, awaiting the main
attraction of the festival. Soon shouts of ‘Arugba tin bo’(Arungba is
coming’) rent the air as the gunshots came in a furious staccato, while
drums bore the brunt of their owners’ excitement.
The crowd surged
forward, necks craning towards the entrance to the shrine while hands
held above heads busily snapped fingers in the continuous backward
motion, traditionally known to signify an act of warding off evil.
Chants of supplication to Osun were taken up by the crowd: “Ore Yeye o,
ore Yeye o!’
Arugba’s Arrival
The Arugba came,
surrounded by her inner circle of Osun followers and predecessors. She
wore a white strapless gown, walking barefoot with cheeks bulging with
kolanuts that had been placed in her mouth to prevent her from
speaking. Speech was a taboo as she carried the communal offering,
which was covered in an embroidered red fabric. She proceeded to an
unseen spot in the grove, where she divested her burden.
This was the
current Arugba’s fourth walk down the path to perform her votary duty.
Insiders say she has one more run. Perhaps, the most important
requirements for appointing an Arugba are that she be a descendant of
the royal family, and a virgin, chosen by the Ifa oracle.
So, does being the
votary maid militate against her living a normal life, or mark her
unfavourably in any way? Locals suggest she lives a normal life. Though
of course, being an Arugba means she is grounded in the traditional
religion and must adhere to the code of behaviour required by her
faith. On marriage, we are told it is an honour to be the husband of an
Arugba. She has several suitors and must marry from idile awo (a family
rooted in the cultic tradition).
Pomp without the king
Though the regent
and Ajagunna of Osogboland, Gabriel Oparanti was present, he neither
played the king’s role nor sat on the king’s throne. NEXT learnt that
this was so because the late king had kick-started the ceremony before
his demise. Oba Oyewale was symbolically represented at the grove by
his crown and staff of office placed on the throne.
The Ilu Moye
(highest ranking chiefs in Osogbo) opened the homage session to the
late Oba with dances and prayers for the repose of his soul. The
Iyalode group, led by Alake Kolade, the Olomo Oba (princess), which
included Oyinlola, Oluode (hunters), and Babalawos, also said prayers.
“Iku iba gbowo, owo la ba ma san, ojise olorun ki maa igbowo” (If death
would take money, we would have given him. But God’s messenger does not
take money) chanted Ifayemi Elebuibon, leader of the Babalawos (Ifa
priests), in lament for the Ataoja’s passing. The Ayaba, Oluawo, Iyawo
Ile, and Baba kekere, the administrative head of Osogbo, also paid
homage.
Osun’s brides
An American lady
dressed in a flowing wedding gown was one of the sights at the
festival. Reporters and photo-journalists naturally milled around the
lady, who only gave her name as Ayo Olorisa, refusing to answer a
number of the questions. Her minders, some Osun priestesses and Ifalomo
Babatunde Olosun, who introduced himself as her husband, also declined
interviews. The American, however, explained that she was dressed that
way because she’s married to Orisa. A first timer at Osun Osogbo, with
fresh tribal marks on her right cheek, she described the festival as a
“wonderful sight.”
NEXT also met Susan
Gonzales, a Mexican adorned in traditional white iro-and-buba. She was
singled out for attention by a traditional priest who advised that she
bathe in the river in order that she be blessed with children and
riches. When asked how she got to know about the festival, Gonzales
explained, “I have been in Osun for a year and the festival is a big
part of the culture here.”
Visiting matriarchs
From around the
country, worshippers attended the rite that is considered to be the
most important in the practice of the faith. NEXT spoke with Adebimpe
Jagunmolu, the Yeye Osun of Somolu, Bariga, Lagos, on the festival.
“The Osun festival
is as significant to us as it is to the Muslims that they go for
pilgrimage in Mecca or for Christians who visit Jerusalem. It is the
most important annual rite for us to come to worship the Osun goddess,”
Jagunmolu said.
She said her
introduction to the faith began in childhood, “I was born into it, and
my parents ensured that they taught us the religion. It was bequeathed
to us.”
So has she been as
successful in passing it on to her children? She responded in the
affirmative. “I have four children who are graduates and are
traditional worshippers. I have a child who is a Christian too and
another who is married to a Muslim, but they know that during festivals
they must come around to felicitate with me.”
Jagunmolu also
shared insights about traditional religion, saying, “We all see
ourselves as one, though we make sacrifices to our different patron
gods. In our divinations, we are united and co-operative. Whenever an
issue confounds an Osun priest, he seeks counsel from the Ifa priest or
Ogun priest, and vice versa.”
As regards what
sets apart traditional religion from other popular religions, she
enumerated the differences: “We reach out to our gods directly, we do
not believe in going through human intermediaries and asking someone to
pray for us. Also, truth is our major emphasis; our religion does not
allow for you to peddle falsehood. Ask a politician to swear by water
when he makes a promise to the people. He cannot do so because he knows
that when he calls on a traditional god, there’s a repercussion for
falsehood.”
Why then is popular
idea of traditional religion as a means to achieve wicked acts? She
vehemently condemned the notion, saying, “Those who hold that belief
are ignorant people, scared of what they do not understand. We do no
harm to others. Do I look like I want to harm you now?”
Governmental support
The Osun Osogbo
festival, partly popularised by the late Austrian-born Susanne Wenger,
has in recent years received a lot of institutional and governmental
support, and is becoming one of the major tourist attractions in
Nigeria.
Governor Oyinlola
expressed his appreciation and support for the festival, and its
contribution to the tourism industry, saying, “Tourism is intrinsically
linked to the cultural heritage of humanity. The contribution of
tourism to international understanding cannot be over-emphasised.”
He observed that
the festival has been a way of generating employment and goodwill among
nations, while also expressing pride that “we have succeeded in opening
Nigeria up to the international community.”
Adunni’s grave
Though children of
the late high priestess of Osun, Susanne Wenger, aka Adunni Olorisa,
refused to disclose her final resting place within the grove last year,
a small number of people now appear to be in the know. Interestingly,
one of the reasons adduced for the non-disclosure of tomb was that
Wenger didn’t want her grave turned into a tourist attraction or
shrine.
However, NEXT saw
some Osun devotees ascending the stairways out of the inner shrine to
pray at Adunni’s grave, inside one of the huts at Iledi Ontoto. While
two of her grandchildren stood sentry inside the hut, believers
propitiated and made requests of the late high priestess; some dropped
money after they finished praying.
“She chose this
place herself and whatever they request for will be granted,” stated
one of the Austrian’s granddaughters. “It was the committee and her
children that decided to let people know the grave after the first
anniversary of her death. There was nothing sinister about why they hid
the location before; they just didn’t want people to start disturbing
her burial site. But they later decided to disclose the place and let
people interested pray there,” she said.